In the world of made-to-measure, every stitch, cut, and pleat speaks volumes about the craftsmanship and attention to detail that goes into making a garment. While suits often steal the spotlight, the shirt that is worn underneath is of equal importance. At Nassau Tailors, we take pride in crafting made-to-measure shirts that are of the highest quality. In this journal, we delve into the details that make the difference between an average and extraordinary sartorial shirt.
The CollarA collar is made of two pieces with added interlining that give it its shape. Whether it’s sewn in or fused, Nassau collars go through numerous craftsmen to achieve a finished product of true luxury. Unfused collars feature minimal to no lining, creating a more natural, relaxed collar that’s typically reserved for casual shirts. Dress shirts feature a heavier quality interlining for a firmer collar. Our top-quality 100% cotton interlining gives our collars strength and structure to naturally hold a curved shape around the neck. When bent, a quality collar should resiliently spring back, not crease or feel like cardboard.
The ShoulderThe shoulder of a shirt is where comfort meets style. A well-fitted shoulder not only enhances the overall look of the shirt but also ensures ease of movement and comfort for the wearer. At Nassau Tailors, our atelier pays close attention to shoulder construction, ensuring a seamless blend of style and functionality. Whether you opt for a classic shirt shoulder or our beloved ‘‘spalla camicia’’, the pleated neapolitan style finishing.
Lily Stitch & Shank
The majority of shirt buttons lie flat against the fabric, which can lead to loosening over time. However, a shank, a tiny thread extension, adds space between the button and the shirt. This not only enhances the button's appearance but also ensures a sturdier, more durable hold. A sartorial shirt also features a lily stitch. The lily stitch is a more refined method for attaching a button to its thread. Unlike the basic cross stitch, this stitch mimics the delicate form of a lily flower, adding a subtle sartorial detail to the garment. It’s also often referred to as a crow’s feet finishing.
Mother of Pearl buttons
A definitive sign of a sartorial shirt, mother of pearl buttons are known for their durability and luxurious appearance. Sourced from the finest Indonesian nacre, these buttons offer a unique shimmer, rich color and natural durability. We offer these buttons in various round shapes and widths sourced for your personal preference.
Offset Seams
High quality shirts have an offset underarm seam. In this detailed stitch, the yoke and sleeve seams do not meet at a single point, securing the sleeves to closely mirror the natural angle of your arm. Crafting the shirt in two steps, rather than with a single seam, ensures superior comfort and movement, as the sleeve drapes better around the arms.
The Fabric
Just like with suits, the essence of every great shirt lies in the fabric. We only source the finest fabrics from the best mills around the world, ensuring uncompromising quality and comfort. From 100% Egyptian cotton from renowned mill Thomas Mason to the Loro Piana shirting fabrics for both dress shirts or jerseys. Our extensive range of fabrics allows you to choose the perfect texture, weight and pattern to suit your individual style and preferences.
At Nassau Tailors, we believe that true luxury lies in the details and the perfect fit. From cuffs to shoulders, every element of our made-to-measure shirts is crafted to exceed your expectations. Book an appointment at one of our showrooms to explore all the options and to get measured.